3 Step: Laying out a basic course
To lay the base, apply the layers one after the other and finally press them down. First spread the gravel evenly with a shovel and then compact it with a vibratory plate. When spreading, keep in mind a 2% slope, i.e. 2 cm per meter. This allows rainwater to run off and not collect on the garden path.
Tip: To check the 2% slope, lay a ruler lengthwise across the path. Place a spirit level on the ruler and hold a folding ruler vertically on the ground. Then move the level up 2 cm along the ruler and check that the water level is now level. If it is, the slope is 2%.
4 Step: Creating A Leveling Layer
Apply crushed stone with a small grain size of 2 mm to 5 mm as a leveling layer to eliminate any unevenness in the gravel layer. To align the pavers at the end, the chippings are not compacted but only spread with a shovel. Before leveling the layer, make a cutting window to make sure the path will be level. To do this, pound cord irons into the ground in all corners of your garden path. Be sure to keep a little distance from the edge of the path. Connect the irons, placed in front of each other on one side of the path, to the masonry line using a tension knot.
Place the tie pipes right and left in the leveling layer as an aid to later level the layer. To do this, press the pipes evenly into the layer and then check the distance from the top edge of the pipe to the leveling line. In our case, the distance is 4.5 cm. Do not forget to keep the slope. In our case, the distance is because our adjacent pavers are 6 cm high and we need a little more room to vibrate the stones later. If necessary, add some more chippings to get the right height everywhere.
Now level the crushed stone with a level or plank. Then carefully remove the extraction pipes before filling the recesses with some crushed stone. When the foundation bed is level, it should not be walked on after removal.
5 Step: Laying Paving Stones
First, cut some pavers in half so that you can lay the garden path in an offset pattern later. Mark the center of each stone with chalk. Put on suitable protective clothing, attach the marked pavers to your surface with the screw clamp, and cut them in half with an angle grinder. If you are using a wooden board as a base, make sure that the wooden gap extends under the raw edge so that you do not cut into the wood.
Next, start paving the garden path. In our case, we are laying a curved course of pavers. To achieve this effect, place only “whole stones” in front of each other in the middle of the path and place the cut stones all around in an offset pattern. The small spacers at the edge of the pavers ensure that there is some space between the stones and that they do not rub against each other during subsequent shuffling. From the halfway point, turn the stones slightly inward to achieve the desired curved path.
In the last row, carefully cut the pavers so that the joints are not too large. To do this, place the bricks that need to be shortened side by side in the gaps, then use a level and chalk to draw a straight line on the pavers to shorten them.
Number the bricks on the bottom edge so you can position them properly after cutting them. Cut the bricks to size with a screw clamp and an angle grinder. Then place the bricks. If a paving stone still overhangs a bit despite cutting to size, mark the line again with chalk and cut again.
6 Step: Supporting Curbs
Stabilize the path with a backing so that the stones do not slip later. To do this, remove the chippings from the sides of the garden path with a trowel, as the backing will be built directly onto the base layer. You do not need to dispose of the excess chippings but spread them evenly over the stone path as joint material.
Mix the curb support with garden concrete. Before you begin, put on protective clothing. Then pour the concrete and the required amount of water into a bucket and mix everything with the mixer until the concrete is moist. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Spread the concrete evenly across the path at the curbs. Smooth out the backing at an angle with the trowel. Leave about 4 inches of space from the top of the curb to lay the turf at the end on the backing. Moisten the surface of the concrete with a little water; this will cool the concrete and ensure that it dries evenly. Finally, allow the concrete to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.